Barcelona Cool Catalonya

After all the warnings I received about this lovely city, I am happy to report that I have been having a fantastic time in the capitol of Catalonya. Not being able to speak either Catalan nor Spanish (well, only the few key words I recall from Sesame Street), I´ve still fared very well in this lively city by the sea. Because this was my last city on my journey, I treated myself to a very nice hotel at the marina close to where my boat for America leaves on Monday, the start of a new adventure. From the marina it is only a short walk to the spire hosting famed explorer Christopher Columbus, who points west towards my home. I have mixed feelings as I explore prepare to explore my last city of my world tour, but this doesn’t last long because Barcelona captures my heart immediately.

Las Rambla, the famed pedestrian main street of town, is an entertainment zone unto itself. A fun walk past the many street performers leads to Placa de Catálunya, a huge square with fountains, statuary and a big plaza, where major streets intersect. Upon noticing that there seemed to be a lot of motorscooters and motorbikes parked here, I later learned that Barcelona has indeed the most motorcycles of any European city, due to the constant good climate. They also have over 100km of bicycle lanes, so the traffic here is not nearly as crazy as other big cities. I have explored the city by foot, on the bus and only as a last resort by affordable, speedy taxi drives to get me to my destinations like the hotel and the boat terminal. I saw a fantastic Flamenco cultural show and sat next to a woman from Cape Town, SA. We hit it off and went to enjoy some tapas and drinks after the show at a delightful little tapas bar hidden in amongst Barcelona´s ancient, winding alleyways.

We had a lovely time walking around the area after listening to the delicious sound of the Spanish guitars and the flameco dancers´ rythmic feet. I was wowed by Antoni Gaudí´s tremendous tributes to nature and his incredible designs at the apartment building Casa Milà “La Pedrera”, the famed, sandcastle like cathdral yet to be completed, the Temple de la Sagradra Família, and my absolute favorite, the Casa Batlló. This storybook apartment house, which was rebuilt by Gaudí, is the most wonderful piece of art I have ever had the privilege to walk through. I was enchanted, delighted and smiled at his love of nature, his sense of humor and his sheer design genius.

I visited this house at night, seemingly while most people were out having dinner or changing for dinner, and I almost had the house to myself. This was a refreshing retreat from the city´s crowds and gave me time to linger and gawk unobstructed. This house was a fantastic emblem to art, to ease of use, natural light, nature and imaginative playfulness. I adored it. I then made time to stroll the marina and the crowded alleyways, view Barcelona´s gothic cathedral, illumined by hundreds of red glass candles as well as devout pilgrims and parishioners attending mass, walk through the fantastic fruit and vegetable markets where butchers slice meat directly off the leg of whatever meat you want to buy, visited Gaudí´s masterpieces, ate my fill of luscious local anchovies, the soft and strong Manchego cheese and discovered the most decadent chocolate and hazlenut covered waffles, yet feel I only scratched the surface of this artsy place. I also toured Monseratt, the monastery in the mountains about 50km north of here which is home to another much venerated Black Virgin.

The surrounding views and rounded mountain tops were more than worth the sometimes funny, interrupted journey to the mountain. Four days here was definitely not enough to see all Barcelona has to offer. My new friend told me her mother always said you must leave one thing to come back for, and in Barcelona´s case, it will be more than one, as the numerous museums, parks and surrounding areas are all great reasons to come back.

Posted in Barcelona Overview | 1 Comment

Spanish Kitchen

Garlic Soup - Sopa De AjoNow that I am, regretfully, packing up my kitchen in Barcelona, it seemed timely to expound on the indispensible items presumably (from my sporadic research) to be found in the arsenal of a Spanish home cook.
Many of these items can be found in the U.S. (try Trader Joe’s) but of course, never in the variety, quantity, or at the low, low price for which they can be had in Spain. Some of my nominated essentials have never crossed my threshhold here, either, although most have…
For me, whether or not I return to Barcelona, the combination of these peculiarly Spanish foodstuffs will always evoke old, smoke-filled bars where I’ve tasted the best (and worst) of tapas offerings; languid evenings at tables in Medieval squares with cathedral doors and cobblestones for a backdrop; and good friends, good conversation all washed down with endless and excellent bottles of good Spanish vino tinto.
1. Olive oil, first and foremost. By the gallon. Ordinary olive oil for frying and sauteeing, and extra virgin for drizzling on salads and bread. Optional but highly desirable: one of the lovely handblown glass cruets, as shown above, that always stands at the ready next to my stove.
2. Garlic. With just about everything. Rubbed raw on lightly grilled, crusty bread that is then smeared with half of a ripe, red tomato and a good drizzle of olive oil – sometimes to accompany a meal or tapas, other times as the foundation for a bocadillo – Spanish-style sandwich, almost always made with a baguette – of jamon serrano, cheese, salami, or tortilla, the Spanish omelet made with potato and onion.
3. Paprika (pimenton): comes in at least three varieties, mild (sweet), spicy, and smoked. Used liberally in Spanish cooking. The smoked version imparts an indescribable depth to dishes.
4. Olives. My favorite are the fat, green, aromatic manzanilla, but there are many varieties, green and black, oil-cured or in vinegar, with herbs, peppercorns, stuffed with anchovy…to my tastes, good hearty Spanish bread, a semi-aged manchego cheese, a dish of olives and a glass of good table wine are the holy quartet of Spanish gusto and can always be relied upon to sate the sudden onset of peckishness. A close relative is the olive paste, usually from the ripe black olives, which I have discovered is heavenly when spread on a crusty, charcoal-grilled hamburger.
5. Saffron. Flavors stews, soups, and of course, Spain’s most famous culinary export, paella.

jamon serrano

6. Jamon serrano, the famous cured ham of Spain. Comes in varying quality, with the most expensive – the jabugo, pato negro – costing up to 200 euros per kilo or more. It is lean, low in salt, utterly delicious, and ubiquitous. Sadly, it cannot be exported, I understand. Whole legs of these prized hogs hang behind nearly every bar in Spain, and many families buy an entire ham, taking paper-thin slices as needed; there is even a special culinary device to hold the ham in place to be sliced.

7. Bread. No Spaniard will sit down to a meal without loaves or slices of fresh bread bought that morning, or very commonly, both that morning and evening. Bread is sufficiently indispensible here that even on Sundays, when all the supermarkets and shops are closed, every panaderia in town will be open until at least 1 p.m. A Spanish barra (long, thin loaf) comes in many varieties, from a French-style baguette (called by the same name here) to my favorite, the gallega – a long, thin oval with a durable crumb and a rich, fermented flavor that stays fresh until the next day – to cracked or whole wheat, seeded, even rye. Good bread here is a birthright. I will miss it.

8. Tempranillo, quince paste: a sweet, vitamin-C-packed firm jelly that is exquisite with either an aged manchego cheese or a slice of jamon.

9. Asparagus. Bottled. Fat, thin, white, green, a multitude of varieties and brands can take up an entire three-foot section of supermarket shelving, top to bottom. I can’t say why the Spanish are so crazy for bottled asparagus – they also love their bottled and canned wild mushrooms, precooked beans, corn, and green beans – but once in a while, it’s nice, chilled, with mayonnaise liberally seasoned with freshly cracked black pepper. By the way, the Spanish assert that mayonnaise, that quintessential French preparation, actually originated in the Balearic Islands, not far off the Barcelona coast, in the town of Mahon. It has a ring of truth.

10. Aioli, or allioli in Catalan, means ‘garlic and oil.’ It’s essentially a thick mayonnaise fortified with industrial-strength amounts of fresh garlic. Spread it on grilled breads or meats, stir a spoonful into a hearty soup, or dip your french-fried potatoes in it. Just don’t breathe on anyone for the next 24 hours unless they’ve shared your meal.

11. Last, but never least: wine. I don’t pretend to know much about wine, although I’ve tasted some incredibly complex, deep and well-constructed Spanish vino tinto. But give me a good table wine for every day, and I’m perfectly happy. There is an amazing abundance of wine in Spain, much of it very drinkable and cheap. I’m talking under 5 euros per bottle – in fact, in my local supermarket, any wine 6 euros or over has an anti-theft device attached to its neck. I even found a very drinkable house-brand rosado (rose) at one supermarket chain for the unbelievable bottle price of 75 centimos! If this could be duplicated in the U.S., it would put Two-Buck Chuck out of business.

This is a random and woefully incomplete list. If you want to know more, come to Spain and find out why its cuisine and wine and gastronomical bounty are beginning to conquer the world of food. Originally: A few good things no respectable Spanish kitchen would be without Images: Justin Metz and markeveleigh

Posted in Where to Eat | Tagged | Leave a comment

Spain with Barça, Champions of Europe

The three Barça players have become European champions after Spain beat Germany 1-0 to win their first title since 1964. Xavi, Iniesta and Puyol were key players in the final and throughout the competition.

The final of the 13th European Championship between Germany and Spain kicked off at 8.45 pm on Sunday with Iniesta, Puyol and Xavi in Luis Aragonés’s starting XI.
Right from when Roberto Rosetti got the game underway both sides were looking to get forward, though Germany had the best of the play in the first 15 minutes with Casillas being forced to make fine save from Schweinsteiger.

Spain strikes

Then Spain started to get more into the game with Torres hitting the post, Capdevila having a shot and a drive from Cesc which tested the German’s goalkeeper, Lehman. Then in the 32nd minute Torres made it 1-0 to Spain, latching onto a superb pass from Xavi into space and using strength, speed and skill to get past Lahm and chip the ball over Lehman into the German goal.
Casillas tested

Spain began the second half with a wave of attacks which the Germans did well to repel. Then they went on the offensive themselves with half an hour left, and both Ballack and Kuranyi tested Iker Casillas.

Xavi and Iniesta crucial

Even though the Germans were pushing forward, the Spanish continued to create chances with Xavi and Iniesta playing a key role. Xavi took a superb free-kick which Ramos was about to put away when Lehman intervened, while Iniesta had fine chance to make it 2-0 only for the German keeper to save again.

Xavi, Iniesta and Puyol win Euro 2008

Neither side was prepared to sit back and accept the result, with the Germans desperately trying to equalise and Spain seeking the goal that would put them virtually out of sight. In spite of the efforts of the Germans, Spain created lots of chances playing excellent football and Joachim Low’s men were unable to get the goal they needed. After 90 intense minutes of attacking football, Spain won the European Championship for the first time in 44 years, marking the end of a tournament in which Iniesta, Xavi and Puyol have given fine performances.

Posted in Fc Barcelona | Tagged , , , | 2 Comments

Barri Gotic

The Barri Gotic contains a concentration of medieval Gothic buildings only a few blocks northeast of La Rambla, and is the nucleus of old Barcelona. It’s a maze of interconnecting dark streets linking with squares, and there are plenty of cafes and bars, as well as the cheapest accommodation in town. Most of the buildings date from the 14th and 15th century, when Barcelona was at the height of its commercial prosperity and before it had been absorbed into Castile. Around the Catedral, one of Spain’s greatest Gothic buildings, you can still see part of the ancient walls incorporated into later structures. The quarter is centred around the Plaça de Sant Jaume, a spacious square, the site of a busy market and one of the venues for the weekly dancing of the sardana. Two of the city’s most significant buildings are here, the Ajuntament and the Palau de la Generalitat.

Posted in What to Do | Tagged , | Leave a comment

Santa Maria Del Mar

The first documentary reference we find to the church of Santa Maria del Mar is in a text from the year 998. This basilica is the work of the architect Berenguer de Montagut, and the first stone was laid to commemorate the conquest of Sardinia, which completed the Catalan domination in the Mediterranean initiated ten years earlier with the conquest of Mallorca, and which reached its fullest extent with the entry of Sicily and Greece into the domains of the House of Barcelona.

Externally, it is the only perfectly-finished Catalan Gothic church. Its outer walls display the features which differentiate Catalan Gothic from European.

In the Catalan style, there is a predominance of horizontal lines, of solid panels over empty spaces, of flat terraces without roofs, and a preference for large bare surfaces. The buttresses are swithout flying buttresses as in the European Gothic cathedrals, and the towers are octagonal and flat-topped.

The interior of the church is of an extraordinary beauty and has exceptional acoustic conditions that make it an ideal space for concerts, usually of classical and Oriental music but occasionally of jazz.

Posted in What to Do | Tagged , , | Leave a comment